THOM SWEENEY TOWNHOUSE HOLD

DONT CALL IT A FLAGSHIP

THEY’LL BE HERE FOR YEARS

Starring down the barrel of Lockdown II makes it hard to find the right tone to talk about stuff like cool menswear destinations let alone bespoke tailoring, but better get used to that conundrum as new normal-informal seems set in.  But I can write about my boys Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney in context of being the smashing couple of fellas I admire and have deep affection for. Aside of their simmering style code am talking about how they handle their peoples. Sounds proprietorial referring the duo as my boys? I cant help it, I’m double bias. I’ve got a strong emotional connection forged over a decade of developing style matters together, sharing some of a path as they cut their progress through the men’s style realm. Now their path has led them to 24 C Burlington Street, East Mayfair. The Thom Sweeney Townhouse hold opened a month ago. Welcome to the manor, all the fellas in the house.

HOUSE BOYS NOW

Their new townhouse brings the Thom Sweeney vision into together under one double smart looking roof. A buzzy place ideal for style engaged humans to behold. Recently I’ve soaked up strong positivity round the corner at 24 C, despite the bleak potential of Covid & Lockdoom. The amalgamated Sweeney scene is a new, optimistic style destination spot on for actual men. Boys, I bid you sartorial big ups.

SOFA SO GOOD

THE BOYS A DECADE AGO

I’ve systematically documented in the press how Thom Sweeney deliver extemporary modern bespoke tailoring coupled with sophisticated house codes, and how I’d propose them to any man under my styling charge in a heart beat (click). I’ve witnessed them deliver their elegance for countless bods, all who swiftly resonate with their vibe. But other factors make Thom Sweeney special too, spotlighted by recent activity in their newly opened premises. Don’t call this a flagship, its the new Thom Sweeney Townhouse-hold of mens style.

GROUND FLOOR CONTROL

Thom and Luke bloody love working the shop floor. Their natural habitat is amongst the garms and the people. They manned their Bruton Place ready to wear gaff with vigour and thrive off customer connection. Forget the international fashion seasonal structure, these two are on the blower one-to-one with customers when a batch of natty new suede blousons drops. They can barely get their heads up to speak to needy journos they’re so immersed in dealing in their social currency. These tight, knowing conversations include talk of pieces and stylish updates the boys are committed to on very personal levels. Factors like new house collar shape, a wicked limited edition accessory or the fresh bolt of fabrics they’ve deftly assembled. This stuff defines them and what customers want. Its this crossovers binds like-minded types.

BASEMENT TACKS

There’s a powerful quiet, longer-term trend with certain successful menswear sartorial-brands: Not just totally getting you customers but pretty much being them on certain levels. Thom Sweeney are at the vanguard of this lean into ultra-customer facing offerings. They are their customers on levels of lifestyle, social spheres and their fondness for an unflashy but sexy take on menswear. The brisk bowl between their Weighouse (bespoke) and Bruton (RTW) gaffs was well bowled by both founders daily as they kept up their personal engagement with the bespoke alongside. The new Townhouse brings these offers together, but also gives enthusiasts a new East Mayfair destination coup. Despite dark Covid clouds, proud moments for friends and clients have ensued as they’re toured up the four floor, 3000 square feet Thom Sweeney home.

Over the spiked Victorian railings one sees the bright ground floor reception, and can walk straight into Thom Sweeney smart-casual world. Set in a plush-ish, unfussy interior are considered edits of trousers, knits, outwear and accessories with bar in corner, obvs. Dapper Sweeney crew members are present, laid-back but attentive, always busy, never looking like shop boys on a shift. Below a remarkably uncluttered open bespoke workroom is manned by Eithen and his be-suited Rifles (the cutters and coat-makers) with a further basement arch set aside for arch barber-badboy Brent.S.Pankhurst, armed with his eponymous line in products and double-cushion pool trick shots.

POCKET FLAPS

For balls and pockets take the stairs upward. Bespoke & MTM orders are executed on the first floor, with attractive screens and furniture setting off examples of current tailoring. This room has also been showcasing commendable pool skills on the 8 foot unusual mid blue table. A focus of much downtime, the table has witnessed their in-house acutely tuned cutting eyes and most of their clients levels of play are excruciatingly high. I demurred after a couple of humiliating frames where I could scarcely hold up my stick. Especially when double or quits bets with custom made chinos being placed as stakes. Double breasted or quits? No thanks, I’ll see you in the bar.

For me, an essential part of this story is ‘Sols bar’ on the top floor. Named after Luke’s father in law who knew a couple of things about hospitality (see photograph on wall of Sol in black tie sat next to Sinatra holding court). Airy and bright by day, low lit by night, the lounge bar is the place for the team to welcome their extensive client/friend roster to relax and discuss important stuff totes at ease. More evocative photography and paintings complement the Italian polished marble bar, rosewood furniture and leather sofas. I particularly dig the banquet and two seat tables section, straight out of an uptown NYC restaurant, right down to the ‘Sol’ matches.

FRANK & SOL SMART CAUSAL

featuring top flight hand moves

You can plug bottles of your own preferred current wine here, if you’re a wine-plugging sort of guy. The quietly sassy full-time female bartender Jamie keeps the largely male attendees under manners, while producing splendid Old Fashioneds and Margareta’s, though I’ve yet to get past the ‘bespoke’ level red wine option. The musics good much of the time, too.

THREE BUTTON SUITE

Glamorous clients, celebrities and international looking men are dressed in interpretations of the house tailoring, but also gamely representing the Sweeney effortless casual cipher. The stylistic impression of most looks and attitudes are a far cry from the sitting-about-in-offices or on business lunch mode. These are notably superior stances to the nearby Cecconni’s afternoon slouchers replete with swinging-tick-tock alpha watches and naff chino x monk shoe combos. Just sayin’. Sweeney visitors bring girlfriends who are evidently accustomed to highest retail scenarios fashion capitals offer for their own bespoke fittings. For patrons its clearly a pleasure  sharing the Thom Sweeney style situation they’re so comfortably ensconced in with their female companions, including a couple of Victoria Secret girls. Two with one bloke, mind.

The boys are even handedly effortless, relaxed and hospitable to all, whether its the gamut of friends, including their house footballing poster boys Frank Lampard and Jamie Rednapp, or the diverse types from gallery owners, boxers and actors that they spent quite a bit of time with. My clients from TV and film always thrive on the Sweeney vibe, frequently more in tune with Luke and Thom than they are with me. Sol’s is the setting for all this now. “People genuinely wanna hang out up here” Luke told me as we relaxed over fat olives and a drink, “they’re not just coming to show face”.

SHOWING FACE

“people genuinely wanna hang out up here” claims Sweeney.

The boys crossover with customers on so many wavelengths, tuned to the same frequency. Yup, on shoes and knitwear, but moreover social habits and tastes  across music, sport and culture. Luke sent me his disco play list from Sols and concede dropping George Benson, Marvin and The Whispers ain’t too shabby a young, forty year old tailor man. Keep it up, young ‘en.

“It feels like home here already. Our little corner, with Anderson&Sheppard and Connolly right in our local bubble”

PETERS STAFF DEPORTATION PARTY

There’s one more critical level to the what Townhouse stands for and it runs across all floors and beyond, underlined to me while hanging out in Sols. For example the Sweeney lad Peter who runs the NYC shop was over in London for the 24C opening period. He’s loved by all, and at his leaving/returning do the camaraderie of the squad feels much like the family caring you get with men serving in armed forces, more than in retail. Another Sweeney soldier, Brad, worked solidly for weeks during the intense opening spell. Now being rested, as had worked too hard and too dedicated without being ordered to at all. There was genuine concern and relief he was off on leave for a spell.

UPBEAT FRAME OF MIND

Whiddett surveys cloth before touching

Dedicated Thom and Luke lead from the front on this level and the effect is to keep the squad tight, even when it’s brokering a lavish delivery of truffle pizzas from the Connaught Hotel, its all hands on deck. The Friday convo with Luke continued when I asked his plans for the weekend. After lunch with his family, he’ll be back in for Saturday afternoon with the lads on the floor. With their gear and their people. Despite being devout family men, they cant keep away.

BESPOKE TAILORING & DRINKS ORDERS TAKEN

The Thom Sweeney squad typify a new model for style retail that ain’t defined by farty tailoring cliques or nerdish attention to constructions. Nor style magazine diktats or generic international ad campaigns. No. Thom Sweeney are all about faith in their quietly confident style, their crew and the open bonds with the customers. From the top Thom Sweeney boys are working lads with great taste, skill and a vision that works for real fellas. Most new introductions quickly becoming more than just customers. The Thom Sweeney townhouse is a boon to human and style connections in the East Mayfair area and I salute its opening.  This all equates to some bloody good reasons to look forward to coming out of lockdown and back to Savile Row endz.

Stubbs out.