READY EDDIE ROW
SEXTON BACK ON SAVILES
WITH NEW READY-TO-WEAR AT NO.36
First time Edward Sexton opened a shop on Savile Row it was with Tommy Nutter on Valentines Day 1969. Since that storied sartorial epoch a couple of changes to architecture, climate, government, law and dress codes have come to pass on The Row. Now, despite the unchartered territory our world’s edging through, this month Sexton has opened a new boutique at No.36, offering for the first time his distinct tailoring codes ready-to-wear. That’s what I call positivity - volume 36!
SERIOUS GABBA SCENE
ARE YOU READY TO GABARDINE?
For fans of Sexton’s unique verve this freshly evolved offer is big news. In terms of introducing new retail operations despite prevailing global doom & disorder Sexton shows he’s still channels the audacity Tommy and he displayed launching their ground-breaking Nutters bespoke vision half a century ago. The seasoned vet only sees the Covid-lockdown situation as a temporary hurdle and his re-appearance is a welcome shot in the arm for The Row.
SEVENTIES SUAVE & SEXY
OFF THE PEG, AT THE BAR, DOWN THE ROW
I was buzzing big time just clapping eyes on a killer tan Gabardine Sexton suit in a Savile Row window. Based on Nutter suits from the Seventies this one button, large, leafy lapel RTW number works as a contemporary statement. Styled with long point collar silky shirt and potted Kentia palm its suave and well sexy. Sexing up Savile Row tradition like his is how Edward and Tommy made their name, dressing The Beatles, some Stones and Elton as they went. Now their recognizable handwriting is realised off the peg in wearable, affordable models. Still channeling Sexton wisdom and cutting panache, but reigned in a touch. “We’re doing what we’ve always done” say Sexton, referring to his signature silhouette, swooping lapels and ballsy cloth select. “And we’re always promoting wearing tailoring for ‘fun’”- fun equating to tailoring worn cos you love it, not cos you have to.
BIG NEW PRINZ
(CLICK) FOR WHAT CHATTING BOUT
Looking far too spritely and well moisturised for a man of 78 who smokes like its still ‘69, Sexton is busting his signature D-B and roll-neck ensemble I’ve seen him champion for over two decades. “We know how comfy these can feel, done in merino or cashmere, but they’re still smart too”. Sexton knits are now offered in merino wool, £250, and cashmere, £480 (clicky). Eduardo looks suave as hell, talking equally enthusiastically about geranium and rhododendron prep and his garden fence rebuilds as the new shop. But he’s particularly fired about the new possibilities of separates afforded by various models of trouser. These include his special ‘Hollywood’ top, wide, high no waist band numbers (click). Also new full in the leg, wide, classic gentleman’s trews. “Blending fabrics with different trousers is still as smart, and gives access to detailing on various styles we do. We’re broadening things. Fashion re-invents itself. Trainers weren’t around before. Why not get a blend going with them?” Team Sexton report customers busting the Hollywood pant with designer sneakers, of all things.
REALLY WEDDY?
MICK & BIANCA SPREADING THE LOVE
While actual Sexton off-the-peg is new the man is no newcomer to this arena. He’s been channeling bespoke wisdom through the factory process for decades via consultancy experiences with serious brands. Well documented projects including with Hepworths, Sax and Chester Barrie, as well as teaching Stella McCartney cutting when she was developing her line. “I worked with Hardy Amies on his ready to wear. Also Bill Blass- I dressed Bill himself for years, one of my best clients” Side note- Sexton cut bespoke personally for a troupe of noted, elegant designers including Amies, Blass, Arnold Scassi and Manolo Blahnik.
SEPARATED
NOW TO HAND OFF THE PEG
“This new stuff has strong identification with full bespoke but its made in factory – this is allowed by technology and working closely with people for years”. Edward’s nurtured strong relationships with factories in Italy, developing cuts at his atelier HQ on Beauchamp place, then communicating his ideas to RTW makers. I’ve clocked him at Bari airport mid summer looking totally Dirk Bogarde brilliant on way back home, Panama hat, the lot.
SHAWL THING
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID NUTTER
The new shop at No.36 contains all of Sextons new ideas- one of the smaller modern units on the racy, west side of Savile Row. Its light, uncluttered, with contemporary furniture and photographs by Tommys brother David Nutter for sale on walls (click). These include shots of clients John Lennon & Yoko Ono, as well their house tailoring from that period shot in New York- An arresting portrait of young Edward in strong chalk stripe with wide pants is a fav’.
CHALK & BREEZE
SEXTON UP ON THE ROOF BACK IN THE DAY
“We had to do a Sexton knock your sock off business suit!” explains Dominic Sebag-Montefiore - Creative Director – So there’s a stunning V.B.C. chalk stripe in the new range (click). “Also classic navy flannel and grey pin-head to give access to a sexton suit for a first customer” The silk blends and Gabardine are more, but the RTW offers start at £1500 for a straight up model and there’s a simple three piece for a wedding or business for £1800.
SO DAMN CUFF
CHALK STRIPE TO GO FROM VBC
“Its a commercial access point, with this all selling as separates”. These come with option of modern, narrow leg, flat front pants. D.S.M. reports the Prince of Wales blazer, which works partic well in their cut, has been selling ever so well (click).
INSTANT GARMA!
NEW RTW FROM SEXTON
JOHN LENNON PORTRAIT BY DAVID NUTTER
They’ve even got accomplished outwear too. A theatrical greatcoat and super chic longer length peacoat which am particularly digging. It’s a pretty damn comprehensive range all in all. How did they rustle all this up so quick?
GIVE PEAS A CHANCE
NEW OUTTER-WEAR INCLUDES PEACOAT
“We really had to do this to fill the time when we weren’t running round the world travelling to see clients” says Dom who usually spent nine weeks a year taking Sexton on road/plane. Some of the products are also developments of existing classics. The silk looking shirt in the window/below is now actually mercerised cotton- a coup at £205, and almost easier to wear than the Ponges silk version £380 (clickington).
LOCKDOWN LOUNGE LIZARD
STYLE FACT- D.S.M. FLIES IN THESE
These are evolutions of Mick Jagger shirts, gradually developed and adapted for other Rock n Roll clients like, Harry Styles and Bobby Gilespie. “We made some stretch ones like this for Bobby for on stage as silk gets so hot. This fabric can breath”. Some aren’t even shinny, and Dom flies in his ones. He suggests they work for ‘stay-at-home-lounge-lizard’ for lockdown. I’m really so pleased Edward & DSM not even doing bang-normal business shirts. Whats would be the point in going Sexton if you’re gonna opt for that sort of dullness? Check all their shirts on line as it goes- they don’t half change a look (clicky).
SIGN OF THE TIMES
HANDS ON APPROACH
DSM IN STRETCH MERCERISED SHIRT
“Its very nostalgic to be back- and the welcome has been flattering, right across the Row.” Sexton tells me outside over another fag , and how he has benefited from adaptability and help from the Pollen Estate landlords to get this shop open. Edwards working with them under the premise “it’s good for the Row. Its good for the industry”.
EDUARDO-SAUVO HIMSELF
Even though Eduardo and Dom had to shut with Lockdoom II until December 2nd , they’ve also got this up as fully blown on line offer. Buy on line, collect off Row. Are the Sexton massive debuting yet another first? Click & collect Savile Row! I’m still too dizzy from all the snouts to know.
Stubbs out.
RILED ROVER
ME IN ARCHIVE SEXTON GABBA-PINSTRIPE BESPOKE