SPEED HOOKS ARE GO
Evening Style Merchants*. Walking for exercise, pleasure and sanity has become an (almost) universally embraced activity in ‘the UK’ since the Pandem-lockdowns. Footwear traffic in my hall this winter consists of three rugged boot styles in random distribution: A Tod’s winter Gommino choc-suede shearling-lined number, a old Louis Vuitton military style boot in battleship grey leather and a fat, tan leather pair of Car Shoe retro Alpine hiking boots complete with bright red laces and chunky St.Moritz sole. Aside from being my close companions during lonely Lockers, these different rugged styles have one noteworthy detail in common. Speed hooks. The open on one side. quick to fasten hooks you get in top lace section of hiking boots, which are like a hooks. Speed hooks are what am focused on, and how they are cropping up on far smarter, refined boots for this winter. See Gaziano&Girling’s ‘Urban Commando Boot’ above.
SPEED HOOK ESPRESSO-MODA GALLERY
Hiking boots themselves are obviously trending pukingly hard right now- hard and hardly new. I first tabled these guys as trend thing in October 2016 (click) while functioning as official style journo’ of sorts. Then again when on luxury parole last January. But fuck all that posturing, and despite fact that hiking styles are currently as popular as new, continuous coughing, it’s the speed hooks am diggin’. Not only do speed hooks aid the endless on/off of boot scene that become the prevailing winter reality, but also cos spotted them as a sub-trend cropping up on many superior boot styles for AW20 to strong stylistic effect. Something about their practical, urgent and can-do honesty, and cos the right models got rugged Dainite or commando soles going down has got my boot blood up. Cleverley’s ‘Toby’ (bloody love these), Edward Green’s ‘Connemara’ & ‘Cronley’, Tod’s ‘City Mountain’, Church’s ‘Easenhall’ and the Row’s own Gaziano&Girling’s ‘Urban Commando’ to literally name some of the very best. But enough apostrophy overkill, the Espresso gallery is live and direct above. Plenty to yet your hooks into, no?
-Cleverley Toby – £535 - bloody love these guys- are best in the polished calf leather above I recon- punch detailing combined with their lean, sculpted shape and Dainite sole is so stylish. For once I really want them in black. These Toby guys drop so well in Victorian ‘Tough’ sartorial flex (am thinking bout big time). See ‘Boys Own’ fanzine artwork for more mood ref- If ya know Boys Own, you know, if ya dont- look at this illustration by Dave Little that is integral part of their brand.
BOYS OWN CHAP
“People generally have them to avoid the laborious threading of boot eyelets, as it is much quicker” Gaziano off of Gaziano&Girling told me “but personally I also like them as they grip the lace better and it really helps tie the lace tighter round the ankle giving maximum support.” Now thats what I’m talking about for striding about in proper tight lockdown, Tony. More intel to follow, probably
Stubbs out.
* or is it Style Marchants we are talking? More to come.
More intel on the boots in the gallery is below.
-Tods Urban Mountain boot- utilitarian departure for this lot, with padded ankle section and molded rubber commando-like sole and a dynamic, sporty action kit vibe.
Further enhanced by open Derby format, this is quite different looking from Tods fine-luxe fair, am into it. Drop these with dark, solid cuffed bottom track suit to great effect- as the full grain leather in dark brown/olive works to keep these fellas sophis’.
-Churchs Easenhall £460 – smarter Victorian vibe enhanced by blind eyelets aside from speed hooks, Diamond flatter, smarter more city smart suited sole, with Goodyear construct
-Churchs Edford £530 -buckle strap sexy addition particular likey in combo with the spazzolato level shine on these guys St.Mortiz sole, Goodyear Stormzy welt.
Gonna finish this after had some poached eggs with & leeks and bell paper fried up all nice. Cheerio. Back in a bit.