SOLARO FABRICS ARE A THING SS20
TWO-TONE TONIC TREND
BINS&TONIC- GIORGIO ARMANI’S SOLARO
I’ve seen new uses of Solaro fabrics for RTW tailoring for this season, SS20. Some was actually good, and its re-emergence is significant. Solaro fabrics usually have a red weft in a buff/sandy hue cotton-wool mix-A doppio Italian sartorial flex, usually in light Gaberdine, often herringbone. Typically an off-key pinky terracotta vs sandstone combo delivers a tonic shimmer and additional attitude, a lot like tonic mohairs do. Solaro was developed for military use in hot climates, protection from UV rays and some sort of infections. A totally flop on those fronts, the mix turned out to be cool looking, to some, and robust for summer tailoring (now thats what I call positive appropriation).
Leary Italian’s like Gianni Agnelli and his mentalist Grandson, Lapo bust it big time, largely cos its got a brash, arrogance to it, shimmery red under their Italian sun. Now fashion and luxury tailoring brands alike are offering new Solaro again, and unsurprisingly its largely an Italian affair.
AGI G
GIANNI THRUSTING ABOUT THE PLACE IN SOLARO D-B OPEN FLEX
CORNELIANI
Corneliani (click) have done a nifty little urban Mac in Solaro-esque fabric, actually an Olmetex organic cotton, part of the brands new Circle sustainable capsule (click) - all about freedom of ease and travel, offering dynamism between cities while still digging nature, and similar sentiments. I see it functioning nicely with their terracotta/tobacco Solbieti/Loro Piana silk/linen suiting vibe. I got a potentially wicked little Corneliani MTM sandy doppio-breasted affair coming along one soon very much in this vein. Share share for defo when get hold of it.
CANALI
Canali also made some good Solaro outwear as part of the top flight sartorial AW20 collection they showed in Florence. Their beige DB raincoat in rain protection solaro cotton gabardine has a little waist belt and leather under-collar details, £1,440. More prices for stuff when I catch up with admin and ting. This marks the return of the raincoat is tribute to the origins of the Canali fam, beginning their sartorial quest in its 1934 through the production of raincoats.
GIORGIO ARMANI
But it was the man-like Giorgio Armani who showed really smashing Solaro interpretations in a show celebrating 50 years of his innovative tailoring cool held at Palazzo Orsini, his in-town Milan HQ. Deft modern interpretations, his stylist breaking a two piece showing relaxed suit jacket with hunting like tab collar on an otherwise streamline three button arrangement. Cheeky Japanese looking vest too- nice moves, Giorgio & crew.
GIVENCHY
URBANE IN THE MEMBRANE
GIVENCHY SS20 MEMBRANE PARKA
TRIP-TONIC
MODERN MIXERS IN THE GLAM-GARDEN
GIVENCHY
A Parisan house directed by a Brit also showed bona Solaro-esque stuff in Italy. Claire W-K has left Givenchy now, ffs, but not before paradin ideas in the gardens of the Villa Palmieri in Florence, a fav’ hang out of Queen Victorias, appazza. As well as the pink/blue total tonic ensemble above, distinct blue/russet tonic trews made for a Ronnie Woods bare chested-nightlife-overcoat exit. More subtle Solaro licks with a sheen finish to soft tailoring in that light brown-utilitarian crisp looking stuff and with a sophis’ finish, one suit teamed with a membrane parka- a notable SS20 trend itself.
THE GIGI
But stop the press a second and check this blend. One of my consistently favs brands, The Gigi (clickage) are so doppio creative & cool, in Pittie they presented a killer garment-dyed take on this trend. Typical of their painstaking artisan methods, they begin with a two tone cotton-linen Solaro fabric, which they make up into a blazer, then garment wash it in a water with another pigment, over-dying the fabric. They are so damn good they deserve their own post so gonna hype this solo shortly. Yeah, just gonna do post again, but with just Gigi- bet not a soul even notices. This is basically a retirement hobby try out, so its a win win for me, non?
STEALTH SOLARO
THE GIGI’S UNDER UNDER RADAR TWO-TONE GARM-WASHED BLAZERS ARE TOTALLY BLOODY WICKED.
ROGER DAT?
The Gigi alchemy applies duration and temperature are so gently as only signore Boglioli & crew can do, so as to not fully mute the solaro. The effective is super chic, handles delightfully with exclusive low key soft texture. Totally loved this piece, in two colour options- Khaki muted Solaro and a bottle green take. JUST LOOK - AT - IT- FFS. Its really very special, wearable and sophis’. Thats The Gigi all day long. Meanwhile, talking of special and sophis…. down on actual Savile Row.
DRAKES MADE TO MEASURE SOLARO - Introducing, to those that don’t know, Ben Glynn Phillips (click) off of Drakes, and significant Row style monger & co-conspirator of The Row Stance. Check his Solaro stance. ”It’s just not something you see every day, it feels like a good day when you put it on” he tells me.
Now here’s a man enjoying his Soloro flex on The Row- Drakes made to measure, Smith & Woolens Solaro, starting at £1295 made just from The Row shop (click). Totes-Natty flex, especially with hands free styling, and am diggin’ how BGP teams his tie with Moschino like clouds&blue sky- forget spezza ..thats what I call a sunny disposition. “you get 2 colours for the price of one” Phillips continues, “Plus, most people hate it”.
This Solaro thing important moment, as this shimmer-vibe simply not been out there for a while. As well as being potential showy, even a leery fabric, qualities that haven’t been on the sartorial menu for a while, Solaro’s dry yet sheeny visual is a departure. Solaro isn’t as in your face as tonic but its a parallel two-tone sheen ethos. Just saying. its a thing. Stay tuned to Solaro channel.
Stubbs out
CINQUE TERRACOTTA HUE
GILBERT, GEORGE, MARIANO OF THE SOLARO MASSIVE