L.E.J. ROW POP-UP

NET PROPHET

LUKE WALKER IS L.E.J.

Savile Row is seldom celebrated for witty style or louche attitude. Visiting the L.E.J pop-up on The Row last week I scored gratifying hits of both. I also witnessed some smashing RTW menswear ideas too <click>. Fine, white net drapes in the windows of number 20 veiled its interior, so main clues to activities within were a glowing pink “L.E.J” neon sign and framed photograph of two men posing in identical utilitarian army green action gear, including what appear to be yellow refuse collecting gloves.

WE’VE BIN COURTEOUS

GANIO & LUKE in L.E.J. SS23

The pair are super-stylist Ganio <click> and L.E.J founder and creative director Luke Walker. Their twin outfits are from Lukes L.E.J SS23 collection, which features across a series of  pair-portraits which are ace*. The jocular style merchants met when Julian Ganio worked on the styling for Dunhill back when Luke was a designer there.

CHALK & SLEAZE

SINNING IN THE RAIN

L.E.J.s foundation is set in shirting, and its ethos involves taking practical, established and technically defined menswear items then upgrading it via finesse and wit. An apparently straight-up black and white check shirt, for example <clicky>, is actually quite sheer, in fine cheesecloth silk/cotton. It has a boxy, Fifties cut but is then is buttons are made from special Tahitian smoky, iridescent mother of pearl that comes via volcanic sand impregnated oysters (£295). Typical of L.E.J tone it is known as “Come Up To The Studio” .

UNSHIRTEN SMILE

SHEER DELIGHT

“The Officers” shirt <clicky-wicky> by contrast, is in a beautiful powder-blue washed silk canvas with point collars and military style pocket (£375). A fitted silhouette, twin needle detailing seams, and hemmed tails also follows the military theme. But if that fabric juxtaposition don’t grab you enough, there’s also a vivid orange/black tiger stripe cotton-silk version.

OFFICERS YES

WASHED SILK CANVAS SHIRT

Walker links emotions to items & fabrics as he shows me his collection. “I want to give the guys and girls who wear the brand more tools in their arsenal to express themselves; To surprise. The silk doesn’t look like silk, until you graze a misguided finger over it. The plaid looks like a classic lumberjack shirt, until you get close enough to see the curves of the body”

Lukes modus operandi is influenced by a hand-drawn diagram design of a Rolls Royce engine part his Dad made that he fondly shows me. It is realised freehand and consequentially exhibits artistic flair while operating with within technical parameters. A lot like LEJ does within menswear tropes.

ZIP UP TO THE

JUMPER? NOT WORKING- WILL FINISH LATER

A zip up shell blouson is relatively knock about idea but in LEJs black or army green shower proof cotton <click> coming with equally action-dynamic matching jean cut trews. These could seem sporty/workwear-esque but the fabrics and and zips suggest differently. And If that aint clear, being L.E.J., there is a leopard version <click> also.

LEO-PARD SET

These evoke the matching pattern top x bottoms from Mosch’, Iceberg or Versace members of certain UK garage crews referred to as ‘sets’ . There is more than a whiff of Moschino about LEJs  playful/contra attitude and I am into it. Check his cotton silk flower print takes on plage in cotton silk for example.

DAFF’D AS A BRUSH

DAFFODIL PRINT PYJAMA PLAGE SHIRT.

Striking decorative prints done in ‘off-key’/non-typical colours on in an elevated fabric in a classic menswear garment, such as the ‘Plage Pyjama’ in daffodil print silk <clicky>. E ci vai.

“Guys clothes can be way too boring and technical” Luke tells me. “I love the technical, but I also love the softness of nature, so I attempt to merge the two. Take the pop-up’s floaty and feminine cotton voile on the most formal street in menswear. Agitate!” exclaims Walker. He was taught this thinking while working for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin during the good period 2005-’11.

HUNTER PHILANDERERS

Hold tight.

Talking to Luke he demonstrates  it becomes apparent a ‘closeness’ to L.E.J wearers are almost a requirement to appreciate- perhaps encouraging intimacy with the wearer. I very much like how these items repeat seasonally with nuanced developments. Check LEJs previous collections here <clicky-wicky>.

HAVIN’ IT PLAGE

“Cat Posh Plage“ jacket

Other very good bits to mention include the “Cat Posh Plage” loose jacket <click> in washed sack linen, very much a loose caban/chore jacket . Gotta finish writing this post Lido, so do please bare with. or is it bear? Not that sort of Lido mind.

Swift Intel Dump.

L.E.J are Luke’s initials Luke Edward John (but can be pronounced ledge),

Luke, AKA Whiskers to some, designed at Dunhill, Drakes & Lanvin previously.

The set of excellent twin-portraits are by James Harvey Kelly <clickage>

The 20 Savile Row affair was LEJ second London Pop Up

Stubbs out.

CHECK MATES

GANIO & WHISKERS