LATERAL ROW TEST - NEW POSITIVES
PINKING SHEARS
DOBRIK & LAWTON OPEN ON SAVILE ROW
The young bespoke tailoring duo Dobrik&Lawton (click) opens for business in our newly decked-out space at 31 Savile Row today. The left hand window of No.31 now houses Josh & Kim’s first display which tells their stylistic story rather well. “Half Deco, half sinister and contemporary” says Josh of the baffling, diverse amalgam of motifs presented. The pair of mannequins clearly reference their female & male presence, while their acutely angular, pointed ‘heads’ channel visuals of Wellbeck Streets car-park polygons, their sharpness echoing exceptionally pointed house peak lapels. But it’s the bespoke creations the dummies are actually showcasing that really inform us of the brands tailoring work and style ethos.
PELMUT UNDERGROUND
KIM & JOSH RELAX IN NEW SPACE
The beautifully cut, proportioned & finished black & white chalk stripe coat (part of suit) is inspired by Ann Scott-James, ‘a first female career journalist and editor’ (who as far as I can tell dressed elegantly with verve and attitude in the then masculine sartorial style). This striking double-breasted look is achieved with their strong padded shoulder and rope sleeve setting, swooping peak lapels, then further enhanced with its skirt. “The silhouette is canvassed all the way round the skirt to emphasize waist and increase flare. All about power women” they tell me.
“ALL ABOUT POWER WOMEN”
INSPRIED BY ANN SCOTT-JAMES
The other stand draws contrast via their ‘Atelier’ coat, inspired by Paul Poiret's "Blouse de Travail", which tackles both bespoke sensibilities and work wear rigours. “We’ve replicated the combination of utility and formality found in the garments typically worn by "petites mains", the sewing workforce of French couture houses”. Details include a half-belt, diamond-shaped fastening and belt straps and diamond pockets (taken from their beloved Art Deco), pleating, and an angular shawl lapel in addition to a utilitarian feel. “Its neither formal nor casual.” Josh explains of the well-executed piece in black cotton cloth, itself their expression of evening vs. workwear.
ATELIER COAT
EVENING VS WORKWEAR INTERPRETATION
These pieces are outcomes of Dobrik&Lawtons painstaking dedication to bespoke craft steered by their vision of style. It’s very interesting and promising stuff for The Row bespoke tailoring scene, where both youngsters have previously worked.
“I am delighted to be back home on the Row, and to insert our brand within the history of the street. We’re the youngest bespoke tailors to have opened a store here in 52 years.” Kimberley Lawton, Director & Cutter.
HOUNDS YOUTH CHEEK
Their space has been carpeted in vivid Tangiers pink carpet, and draped in fabric a shade somewhere between classic Miu Miu dusty pink and a vintage prosthetic limb flesh tone. Combined with D&Ls work & window display it makes for an arresting new sight for Savile Row.
“The London craft tailoring scene has started seeing a new wave of young makers with fresh ideas. It’s an incredible time for our trade and we’re excited to be at the heart of where it all started.” Joshua Dobrik, also Director & Cutter.
Link to Dobrik&Lawton post mentioning “Pop Up” at No.31 (click).
PLANT & DECO
NEW WINDOW AT 31 SAVILE ROW
Their arrival is doubtless a positive moment for Savile Row as the addition of conspicuous youth who possess not only a dedicated embrace of bespoke craft but with certain outré influences. This is surely a step toward making The Row more diverse, yet in keeping with its esteemed sartorial lineage. I’m personally grateful to Josh & Kim who agreed to be the first brand to partake in the series we hope to present at 31 Savile Row.
Visit by appointment only (click).
The large space at 31 Savile Row has been made available for me to host creative sartorially based projects by the good people of The Pollen Estate.
Stubbs out.