PEATCH LAPEL
ON PEAK-ONE NOTCH
SARTORIAL HIGH SPIRITS AT RICHARD ANDERSON
“Its fun, rule-breaking and elegant” tailor Richard Anderson says about his ‘Peatch’ twin format lapel jacket that I’m admiring in the early un-lockdown sunshine outside his shop (click). I dig Anderson’s dashing one-button house cut but it’s his foray into lapel anarchy I’m buzzing about. One peak, one notch, one jacket. The sort of move fashion mentalist Franco Moschino did so well. Italian maestro wit would do half pleated dinner shirts, have ruffed. Or entirely different quarter suits in clashing pinstripes vs. checks. Hilarious stuff, which can defo’ be both frivolous and cool, but only if done beautifully. Anderson’s is executed exquisitely. “Its fine a line but I’ve tried to stay on the right side of outrageous”. He has, so it does. I’m also liking his wild, unkempt lockdown status-hair* teamed with this striking lilac Gabardine jacket- If he pushed it back with some product it’d be like Michael Hestletine playing the Joker. I n a good way, obviously.
ITS A FINE A LINE
“BUT I’VE TRIED TO STAY ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF OUTRAGEOUS”
This defiant sartorial piece hasn’t seen light of day for years, but now Richard thought it’d be an upbeat window statement to lift un-lockdown scene. The idea came to Anderson back when he was a ‘kid’ training at Huntsman. Boss Mr Hammick would get the weeks coats down from the workshop to pass them on Fridays, checking collars, sleeves and other technical stuff. “I was a lacky and he’d throw the coats at me .. ‘notice anything different bout this one Richard?’”. He looked and looked but didn’t see anything odd. In fact it all seemed great. On reflection it’s possible because he was regarding them in a mirror, but this particular coat had the out-breast on the right hand side. “He just was seeing if I was observing”
Anderson’s Peatch has right hand out-pocket too but plays with the eye line much further. Its quite physical how the eye follows the line across the pocket, straight over the notch then shoots up woosh over the peak lapel and off into space. A proper sartorial eye gag, but still far from in your face. It is playful and chic. This is a lovely Garbadine from Dormieul, but he’s done it in oatmeal linen, navy cashmere and a green POW check previously.
“IT PROVES TO BE A GOOD TALKING POINT”
ANDERSON REVIVES WITTY SARTORIAL PIECE FROM 2012
“I’m conscious of not going too cartoony on these sort of things” he continues with regard to other house motifs such as his check tweed “but it proves to be a good talking point”. He’s made eight bespoke order of this piece since its released in 2012. But then Anderson’s got 2000 bespoke clients, so naturally some of the more game among them see the cheeky merit for impactful occasional wear.
Meanwhile, other customers have been phoning orders in throughout Covid Crisis. He’s one of the first tailors I’ve spotted hard at it since un-lockdown begun last week, but in fact he’s not stopped work at all, global pandemic or not. With “plenty of work in the tank”, he’s managed to keep half of his 25 strong workforce on during Lockdown, working from home. Richard’s also been working on his shop and ready to wear presentation with his daughter Molly, who he’s also been tutoring on striking out bespoke tailoring.
Back to striking and Richards Peatch jacket, oddly as I don’t normally fanny about with sober navy, I’d love to see this made up as straight navy hopsack blazer with yellow gold buttons. Maybe even go D.B? One has gotta wonder what would Franco do at this point? For now I’ll ask Richard.
Stubbs out
* Men with mad, wild hair style are those that have kept to the Covid-lockers rules, and right now insane wire or mop style hair is effectively a moral status symbol, unless you’re totally bald, in which case, as you were.